The bistro opens its second service at ten, when the theatres let out. The menu is written on a mirror: four starters, four mains, one dessert that changes with the season.
The room fills with actors still wearing a trace of make-up, musicians with their cases under the table, and couples arguing gently about the play they have just seen. Nobody is in a hurry. The kitchen closes at one.
Order the dish of the day and a carafe of the house red. At this hour, that is all anyone needs.