The last trams of the evening are the best seats in Lisbon. The day-trippers have gone, the windows are open, and the old carriages rattle up the hills past bakeries closing their shutters and bars just turning on their lights.
We spent a week riding them late, getting off wherever the street looked promising. A tiny bar with four stools and a record player. A restaurant still serving grilled fish at eleven. A viewpoint where the whole city lay below, orange and quiet.
Lisbon is a city of slopes, and the night makes them gentler. Walk down, ride up, and never plan more than one stop ahead.
